So after our day in the city, and checking and re-checking and hypothesizing about the weather, we got up early to get the Christ the Redeemer early, beating the crowds and the clouds. He was surrounded but clearly visible in the white clouds at the top, and he is beautiful. We waited at the top for some time, enjoying the view and watching the cloud burn off, until the cloud was only patchy. We were stoked and apparently very lucky, as many others who went later missed him when the cloud returned. From there we went to the beach in the sun, where it had transformed from beautiful and peaceful to crawling with people but lively and hours of fun people-watching! Especially loved the over-tanned larger women in tiny bikinis and men in speedos!!
Our final mission that day was up the sugar loaf. We climbed the first of the two hills and took the gondola up to the top of the second. From the top the view was amazing and although still partly cloudy, we still had a cool view of the sunset on our last night in Rio. An awesome way to finish the trip! We met the remaining girls from the tour for a beer at one of the beach umbrella bars and said goodbye for the trip. It was weird given that we had been travelling with two of them for 82 and the rest for 63 days! But also cool to be coming home again, we can't wait to see everyone!! Rio has been fantastic, a really awesome city, and a great last stop.
We are wishing we could upload photos, but keep checking because we will do so ASAP in NZ.
Jet-setting today, see you all soon!! Xoxoxoxoxoxo
Final Sam Fact: Rio de Janeiro is the only city outside of Europe to have ever have been the capital of a European country. During the Napoleanic wars, the Portuguese royalty moved to Rio.
Friday 30 November 2012
Days 99 - 102: Finally in Rio!! Part One: What To Do in Wet Weather
Well after so much time travelling now, it was hard to believe we were actually here! But Rio de Janeiro has been absolutely amazing!
We arrived to misty drizzle. Not exactly how you see it on tv. Apparently it rains a lot in summer so the last month of rain has been unusually early. So our first day was quiet, we had a wander around Copacabana where we were staying, then went out for our final dinner of the tour.
The next day we woke up hopeful, but unfortunately, misty drizzle again. So we canned our initial plan of a city tour, deciding instead to split up the sights by fine weather and wet weather activities, and went for a walk around Copacabana beach and to nearby Ipanema beach. The white beaches were stunning even in cloudy weather.
In the afternoon we went on a favela tour. It sounds horrible, going on a tour of one of Rio's poorest areas, but we had been told it was a must-do and it was really interesting. The favela we visited was Rocinha, which is the largest with an estimated 300,000 inhabitants. The favelas started when the poor could not afford city prices, so knocked down trees on the hills, where it was public land, and built houses. They are tiny houses all stacked together with tiny staircases and access ways sneaking between them. They tap government electricity so that they can have it for free, with lots of cables attached precariously to each power pole and street light. Our guide told us that many live in the favelas as the minimum wage in Rio is $650 Reais per month ~NZ$375, and the rental of even the tiniest city apartment in the south of the city costs ~$2000 Reais per month. They can make a living in the favela, some having shops in the bottom floor of their houses, or even owning multiple houses and receiving rent income, so some can even afford to leave but choose not to. It absolutely poured down and we were soaked, but the favela tour was an eye-opener. On the way back to the hostel the weather cleared briefly and we caught our first glimpse of Christ the Redeemer!
So the following day was still forecast to be cloudy but clearing, so we went to explore the city. The business district is very pretty, with some very old and some very new interesting architecture, including a round cathedral. This building was like an alien version of the beehive, with amazing stained glass inside. We made our way through the city to Lapa and the Selaron stairs (you know, the tiled stairway which features in the Snoop Dogg video 'Beautiful'!). They are awesome and we managed to find the kiwi-themed tiles and pose just like the video, great fun!
The sun had come out, so we decided to race to the Christ the Redeemer. Unfortunately, as soon as we got off the bus, we saw the cloud rise up the hill and over him, so we decided Jesus didn't want us to visit that day.
Sam Fact #1: Rio de Janeiro literally means River of January. It is named as such because it was discovered by the Portuguese on the 1st of January 1502. They believed they had found the mouth of a river, but in fact it was a narrow mouth of a large harbour.
Sam Fact #2: Rio has a total of 95 favelas. The name 'favela' comes from the name of a plant that was cleared to make way for the original Rio slum.
We arrived to misty drizzle. Not exactly how you see it on tv. Apparently it rains a lot in summer so the last month of rain has been unusually early. So our first day was quiet, we had a wander around Copacabana where we were staying, then went out for our final dinner of the tour.
The next day we woke up hopeful, but unfortunately, misty drizzle again. So we canned our initial plan of a city tour, deciding instead to split up the sights by fine weather and wet weather activities, and went for a walk around Copacabana beach and to nearby Ipanema beach. The white beaches were stunning even in cloudy weather.
In the afternoon we went on a favela tour. It sounds horrible, going on a tour of one of Rio's poorest areas, but we had been told it was a must-do and it was really interesting. The favela we visited was Rocinha, which is the largest with an estimated 300,000 inhabitants. The favelas started when the poor could not afford city prices, so knocked down trees on the hills, where it was public land, and built houses. They are tiny houses all stacked together with tiny staircases and access ways sneaking between them. They tap government electricity so that they can have it for free, with lots of cables attached precariously to each power pole and street light. Our guide told us that many live in the favelas as the minimum wage in Rio is $650 Reais per month ~NZ$375, and the rental of even the tiniest city apartment in the south of the city costs ~$2000 Reais per month. They can make a living in the favela, some having shops in the bottom floor of their houses, or even owning multiple houses and receiving rent income, so some can even afford to leave but choose not to. It absolutely poured down and we were soaked, but the favela tour was an eye-opener. On the way back to the hostel the weather cleared briefly and we caught our first glimpse of Christ the Redeemer!
So the following day was still forecast to be cloudy but clearing, so we went to explore the city. The business district is very pretty, with some very old and some very new interesting architecture, including a round cathedral. This building was like an alien version of the beehive, with amazing stained glass inside. We made our way through the city to Lapa and the Selaron stairs (you know, the tiled stairway which features in the Snoop Dogg video 'Beautiful'!). They are awesome and we managed to find the kiwi-themed tiles and pose just like the video, great fun!
The sun had come out, so we decided to race to the Christ the Redeemer. Unfortunately, as soon as we got off the bus, we saw the cloud rise up the hill and over him, so we decided Jesus didn't want us to visit that day.
Sam Fact #1: Rio de Janeiro literally means River of January. It is named as such because it was discovered by the Portuguese on the 1st of January 1502. They believed they had found the mouth of a river, but in fact it was a narrow mouth of a large harbour.
Sam Fact #2: Rio has a total of 95 favelas. The name 'favela' comes from the name of a plant that was cleared to make way for the original Rio slum.
Tuesday 27 November 2012
Days 95 - 98: Paraty and Ilha Grande
Hello everyone!
Brazil has been a much more relaxed pace - lots of sand and sun!
Paraty is a small beach town with a very cool colonial feel - the cobbled streets are so uneven it makes it difficult to walk! Our first day we went on a boat tour of the surrounding bay and islands, stopping to swim, with lunch and unlimited caipirinhas on board. Was a great day and we felt sunned and relaxed!
This was only a short stop, two nights but only one day. So we were off to Ilha Grande, the 'big island' by ferry. It is an island probably the size of great barrier, with no cars and covered in rainforest - a beachy, hippy paradise. We explored the island by foot, seeing beautiful beaches such as Lopez Mendez. But then it started raining. Unfortunately the forecast isn't great for the rest of our trip, but we will make the most of it! We persevered, going for a walk through the bush to a wee waterfall, and seeing a family of monkeys in the wild, which was pretty cool.
Now Rio!
Brazil has been a much more relaxed pace - lots of sand and sun!
Paraty is a small beach town with a very cool colonial feel - the cobbled streets are so uneven it makes it difficult to walk! Our first day we went on a boat tour of the surrounding bay and islands, stopping to swim, with lunch and unlimited caipirinhas on board. Was a great day and we felt sunned and relaxed!
This was only a short stop, two nights but only one day. So we were off to Ilha Grande, the 'big island' by ferry. It is an island probably the size of great barrier, with no cars and covered in rainforest - a beachy, hippy paradise. We explored the island by foot, seeing beautiful beaches such as Lopez Mendez. But then it started raining. Unfortunately the forecast isn't great for the rest of our trip, but we will make the most of it! We persevered, going for a walk through the bush to a wee waterfall, and seeing a family of monkeys in the wild, which was pretty cool.
Now Rio!
Thursday 22 November 2012
Days 91 - 94: Iguaçu Falls
Oi! We are now in Brazil and struggling with the change to Portuguese (our Spanish was going so well!!) but have mastered hello - oi!
From Uruguay, we had to pass through Argentina again to reach the Brazilian side of the Iguaçu falls. So we are rapidly accumulating passport stamps! But we have now survived night bus nine of ten, and made it to country seven of seven!! So straight off the bus we headed to the Brazilian side of the falls. Our Argentinian guide Tomás keeps telling us proudly that the Brazilian side is the seats in the theatre, and the Argentinian side is the stage. So the first day we walked along the trail on the Brazilian side, where you get a stunning view of the falls from a overall distant perspective. The falls are spectacular!
The next day we went back to the Argentinian side of the falls. Our first stop was the waterfall called devils throat, an impressive amount of water, and the path took us so close to the top we got pretty soaked! That was great though because it was sooo hot in Iguaçu - 34 degrees and super humid!
We spent the morning walking around the top of the falls, then we did the jet boat ride!! Usually you get wet on the jet boat, which takes you under the falls, but the driver loved the girls' giggling and screaming so took us under an extra time, and by then we got off the boat absolutely saturated. Was great fun and definitely another highlight of the trip.
That night we had a BBQ at the tour guide's house, where he put on an impressive spread. We had the next day to fill in before our last night bus, we went to the bird park, which consisted of massive walk-in aviaries, where we came face to face with an angry toucan, but it was pretty amazing!!
Then the bus. Our last night bus was 24 hours long. An 18 hour bus from Iguaçu to Sau Paulo, where we switched to a private bus for the next 6 hours. It was horrible, the worst bus we have been in yet in terms of leg room and space to recline. Our feet swelled up from inactivity and sitting upright. The private bus was great but we were so keen to not be on the bus anymore! So now we have arrive in Paraty, no big buses left, and only Ilha Grande and Rio to go now!!
Xoxoxo
Sam Fact - Iguaçu Falls is one of the new wonders of the natural world. It consists of 275 drops over a distance of 2.7km. The highest drop is 82 meters. Just a few kilometres downstream of the falls is the triple border between Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil.
From Uruguay, we had to pass through Argentina again to reach the Brazilian side of the Iguaçu falls. So we are rapidly accumulating passport stamps! But we have now survived night bus nine of ten, and made it to country seven of seven!! So straight off the bus we headed to the Brazilian side of the falls. Our Argentinian guide Tomás keeps telling us proudly that the Brazilian side is the seats in the theatre, and the Argentinian side is the stage. So the first day we walked along the trail on the Brazilian side, where you get a stunning view of the falls from a overall distant perspective. The falls are spectacular!
The next day we went back to the Argentinian side of the falls. Our first stop was the waterfall called devils throat, an impressive amount of water, and the path took us so close to the top we got pretty soaked! That was great though because it was sooo hot in Iguaçu - 34 degrees and super humid!
We spent the morning walking around the top of the falls, then we did the jet boat ride!! Usually you get wet on the jet boat, which takes you under the falls, but the driver loved the girls' giggling and screaming so took us under an extra time, and by then we got off the boat absolutely saturated. Was great fun and definitely another highlight of the trip.
That night we had a BBQ at the tour guide's house, where he put on an impressive spread. We had the next day to fill in before our last night bus, we went to the bird park, which consisted of massive walk-in aviaries, where we came face to face with an angry toucan, but it was pretty amazing!!
Then the bus. Our last night bus was 24 hours long. An 18 hour bus from Iguaçu to Sau Paulo, where we switched to a private bus for the next 6 hours. It was horrible, the worst bus we have been in yet in terms of leg room and space to recline. Our feet swelled up from inactivity and sitting upright. The private bus was great but we were so keen to not be on the bus anymore! So now we have arrive in Paraty, no big buses left, and only Ilha Grande and Rio to go now!!
Xoxoxo
Sam Fact - Iguaçu Falls is one of the new wonders of the natural world. It consists of 275 drops over a distance of 2.7km. The highest drop is 82 meters. Just a few kilometres downstream of the falls is the triple border between Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil.
Saturday 17 November 2012
Days 86 - 90: Montevideo and Salto
Hello everyone!
Just a quick blog before we head across to Brazil!! We hear we won't have wifi for a few days at the falls so just a wee hello!!
In Montevideo we were back to the city, but it is a lot more relaxed than Buenos Aires. Salto is our last stop in Uruguay before Brazil, more of a stopping point to break up the journey so we have been relaxing at the pools. More on this later! Two weeks to go!! Xoxoxo
Ok to add more info:
In Montevideo we spent the first day walking around the old town, which included a visit to the viewing deck of one of the highest buildings in the area, a telecommunications company, which had a great view of the city. The city is a mix of old and new, with horses used to pick up recycling! The next day we walked ~13km from the old town down along Las Ramblas which goes around the beaches. This was a nice relaxing day - we have been really lucky with the constant sunshine!!
Then we were off to Salto, our stopping point to break up the journey. There isn't much in Salto apart from a hot pools complex, so we had a great day swimming and relaxing in the sun before we entered Brazil!
Sam Facts for the last wee while (mostly from Buenos Aires):
When BOCA Juniors, Argentinas most famous football club, were being set up the founders disagreed on the club colours. Therefore to settle the dispute they decided that they would be based on the colours of the next ship that sailed into port. It just so happened to be a Swedish ship and their colours were immortalized as blue and yellow!
Avenida 9 de Julio, which runs north to south through Buenos Aires, is the worlds widest avenue with a total of 18 lanes, nine in each direction!
Just a quick blog before we head across to Brazil!! We hear we won't have wifi for a few days at the falls so just a wee hello!!
In Montevideo we were back to the city, but it is a lot more relaxed than Buenos Aires. Salto is our last stop in Uruguay before Brazil, more of a stopping point to break up the journey so we have been relaxing at the pools. More on this later! Two weeks to go!! Xoxoxo
Ok to add more info:
In Montevideo we spent the first day walking around the old town, which included a visit to the viewing deck of one of the highest buildings in the area, a telecommunications company, which had a great view of the city. The city is a mix of old and new, with horses used to pick up recycling! The next day we walked ~13km from the old town down along Las Ramblas which goes around the beaches. This was a nice relaxing day - we have been really lucky with the constant sunshine!!
Then we were off to Salto, our stopping point to break up the journey. There isn't much in Salto apart from a hot pools complex, so we had a great day swimming and relaxing in the sun before we entered Brazil!
Sam Facts for the last wee while (mostly from Buenos Aires):
When BOCA Juniors, Argentinas most famous football club, were being set up the founders disagreed on the club colours. Therefore to settle the dispute they decided that they would be based on the colours of the next ship that sailed into port. It just so happened to be a Swedish ship and their colours were immortalized as blue and yellow!
Avenida 9 de Julio, which runs north to south through Buenos Aires, is the worlds widest avenue with a total of 18 lanes, nine in each direction!
Tuesday 13 November 2012
Days 82 - 85: Buenos Aires
So after our hideous bus, we were in Buenos Aires. We were warned by our guide that Buenos Aires is really bad for robberies, so we were told to be very vigilant, travel around in big groups, not visit certain streets and not carry ANYTHING! So, with Sarah paranoid as hell, we began our sightseeing mission. We were very safe at all times, but while we were there two members of two other groups were mugged, one losing his passport and not being able to continue on his tour. We have learned that you don't get much attention if you look like you are carrying nothing, so we travelled safely for three days with only a water bottle, about NZ$50 cash, and one camera.
Buenos Aires has some amazing architecture, but a bit of a run-down feeling, where the rich suburbs are really nice but the rest is really not. We think we walked the entire safe walk -able part of the city, with highlights being our trip to the Recoleta cemetery containing many family tombs, including Evita's, our tango lesson and show, and the Bomba del Tiempo drumming show.
So Buenos Aires was a bit rugged for our liking, but we were glad to be able to visit safely. Today we caught a boat from Argentina to Uruguay (country 6 of 7!!), where we are now in the small but very sunny and peaceful Portuguese colonial port town of Colonia. We hired a golf cart and had a great afternoon tootling along by the beach and round the old town. Onward to Montevideo tomorrow!!
Xoxoxo
Buenos Aires has some amazing architecture, but a bit of a run-down feeling, where the rich suburbs are really nice but the rest is really not. We think we walked the entire safe walk -able part of the city, with highlights being our trip to the Recoleta cemetery containing many family tombs, including Evita's, our tango lesson and show, and the Bomba del Tiempo drumming show.
So Buenos Aires was a bit rugged for our liking, but we were glad to be able to visit safely. Today we caught a boat from Argentina to Uruguay (country 6 of 7!!), where we are now in the small but very sunny and peaceful Portuguese colonial port town of Colonia. We hired a golf cart and had a great afternoon tootling along by the beach and round the old town. Onward to Montevideo tomorrow!!
Xoxoxo
Days 79 - 81: Bariloche
Hola Amigos,
Sorry it has been so long again, lack of wifi!
Bariloche is known for its outdoor activities, so outdoors we went!! It is a quiet town next to the lake, with excellent chocolate shops lining the main street. It is also the (supposed) home of the best steak, so of course we went to a steakhouse and had the most amazing steak for dinner on our first night, accompanied by some really good malbec! Sounds silly, but definitely in the top ten highlights of the trip!!
For our first full day in Bariloche, we hired mountain bikes and went for a ride around the peninsula, which was a very up and down road, about 25kms. We stopped a lot along the way to admire the scenery, and catch our breath with three months' holiday fitness!! The views were spectacular. We got the bikes back in time to climb a hill where there is the most fantastic view, another real highlight of the trip, the lake and surroundings were beautiful.
The next day, Sam loving the outdoors especially, we went for a big hike, around 22kms, alongside then up a mountain. Near the top there is a refuge and frozen lake, which was also beautiful but pretty chilly, given that the last 100m of hiking up was on snow!! It was good to get a lot of exercise here!!
That evening the owner of the hostel cooked us a really good Argentinian BBQ (called an asado) so we were very well exercised and well fed by the time we left Bariloche!!
We then caught the longest bus yet, 22 hours from Bariloche to Buenos Aires. It felt like a long time.
More in the next post!! Xoxoxo
Sorry it has been so long again, lack of wifi!
Bariloche is known for its outdoor activities, so outdoors we went!! It is a quiet town next to the lake, with excellent chocolate shops lining the main street. It is also the (supposed) home of the best steak, so of course we went to a steakhouse and had the most amazing steak for dinner on our first night, accompanied by some really good malbec! Sounds silly, but definitely in the top ten highlights of the trip!!
For our first full day in Bariloche, we hired mountain bikes and went for a ride around the peninsula, which was a very up and down road, about 25kms. We stopped a lot along the way to admire the scenery, and catch our breath with three months' holiday fitness!! The views were spectacular. We got the bikes back in time to climb a hill where there is the most fantastic view, another real highlight of the trip, the lake and surroundings were beautiful.
The next day, Sam loving the outdoors especially, we went for a big hike, around 22kms, alongside then up a mountain. Near the top there is a refuge and frozen lake, which was also beautiful but pretty chilly, given that the last 100m of hiking up was on snow!! It was good to get a lot of exercise here!!
That evening the owner of the hostel cooked us a really good Argentinian BBQ (called an asado) so we were very well exercised and well fed by the time we left Bariloche!!
We then caught the longest bus yet, 22 hours from Bariloche to Buenos Aires. It felt like a long time.
More in the next post!! Xoxoxo
Monday 5 November 2012
Days 73 - 78: Volcan Villarica and Southernmost Chile
Hola!
We arrived in Pucón after a night van (public holiday so all the night buses were sold out!!) and a hideous lack of sleep! But it is a beautiful town at the foot of the Villarica volcano, next to Lake Villarica. Very picturesque, with a touristy feel, it seems to be the Queenstown of Chile.
So the next day we climbed the volcano. It is constantly steaming, but is not at risk of eruption. The volcano is a popular ski field during the winter, but good for climbing all year round! So the guiding company gave us ski pants, jacket, gloves, snow boots, ice axes and helmets, and we set off!! The climb was easier than we expected (anything seems easy compared with the Inca trail at altitude now!) and luckily the ice axes weren't really necessary! At the top it was absolutely beautiful. Hopefully we can get some photos up soon. To get down again, we sat on tiny plastic sleds and slid down all the way! Was great fun!!
The next day we took it a bit easier and went to visit one of the nearby lakes in the national park. The weather was stunning so it was very relaxing sitting on the beach, Sam went for a swim but the water is still very cold this time of year!
We then took the bus to Puerto Varas for our last two nights in Chile and the southernmost point on our trip! Puerto Varas is a town settled by the Germans beside a large lake with snow capped mountains in the distance, including Osorno, another beautiful conical volcano!
The next morning we took the bus to look around Puerto Montt, a major port and fishing hub. In the afternoon Sam went Canyoning in the mountains - which included traversing down an icy river by jumping, sliding and abseiling!
It was capped of by an abseil down beside a 40 meter high waterfall and a 14 meter jump through the same waterfall - he was the only one in the group brave enough to do it!
Today we travelled across the border to Argentina and the resort town of Bariloche! It was an awesome drive through mountains and along glacial lakes - some of the best scenery yet!
Lots of love xoxo
We arrived in Pucón after a night van (public holiday so all the night buses were sold out!!) and a hideous lack of sleep! But it is a beautiful town at the foot of the Villarica volcano, next to Lake Villarica. Very picturesque, with a touristy feel, it seems to be the Queenstown of Chile.
So the next day we climbed the volcano. It is constantly steaming, but is not at risk of eruption. The volcano is a popular ski field during the winter, but good for climbing all year round! So the guiding company gave us ski pants, jacket, gloves, snow boots, ice axes and helmets, and we set off!! The climb was easier than we expected (anything seems easy compared with the Inca trail at altitude now!) and luckily the ice axes weren't really necessary! At the top it was absolutely beautiful. Hopefully we can get some photos up soon. To get down again, we sat on tiny plastic sleds and slid down all the way! Was great fun!!
The next day we took it a bit easier and went to visit one of the nearby lakes in the national park. The weather was stunning so it was very relaxing sitting on the beach, Sam went for a swim but the water is still very cold this time of year!
We then took the bus to Puerto Varas for our last two nights in Chile and the southernmost point on our trip! Puerto Varas is a town settled by the Germans beside a large lake with snow capped mountains in the distance, including Osorno, another beautiful conical volcano!
The next morning we took the bus to look around Puerto Montt, a major port and fishing hub. In the afternoon Sam went Canyoning in the mountains - which included traversing down an icy river by jumping, sliding and abseiling!
It was capped of by an abseil down beside a 40 meter high waterfall and a 14 meter jump through the same waterfall - he was the only one in the group brave enough to do it!
Today we travelled across the border to Argentina and the resort town of Bariloche! It was an awesome drive through mountains and along glacial lakes - some of the best scenery yet!
Lots of love xoxo
Wednesday 31 October 2012
Days 67 - 72: La Serena and Santiago
Not sure what to report on La Serena, it was very pretty, still great to be in Chile, but the purpose of stopping there was definitely to break up our long journey. We went for a huge 15km walk along the beach from La Serena to Coquimbo to go up the huge concrete cross on the headland - built to commemorate 2000 years of little baby Jesus. It was pretty, and the view from the cross was spectacular, but it was not as bustling as we had expected.
But we weren't there long before heading to Santiago the next day.
We have absolutely loved Santiago, the first SA city we could live in. The city is picturesque, nestled in among huge snow-capped mountains. Only one negative, which is the smog. The people have a lot of character, it is a very pleasant warm dry heat, there are beautiful parks and reserves and the city is modern and organised!
So we arrived on mayoral election day, we read about it on Stuff so you guys should know about it too!! Chile has just changed from optional enrollment and enforced voting to automatic enrollment and unenforced voting, hope that makes sense! At the same time, the president will be elected soon, so there was a lot of interest in the outcome. Everything shut on election day, so our first meal in Santiago was trusty McDonalds. But the next day we were able to explore. We took the subway (civilisation!!) to the brand new biggest mall in SA, decided we didn't like malls, and walked home on the scenic route through the city. This included up the hill reserve to the huge statue of the Virgin Mary, and up the little hill by our hotel which has been a convent and a fortress in the past, but is now a very pretty park. That evening we said goodbye to a few of our number and our guide, in anticipation for the next leg, Santiago to Buenos Aires!! the second to last with one month until home!
The next day we went on another wee mission to the neighbouring seaside towns of Viña del Mar and Valparaiso. Viña del Mar is a popular beach holiday destination for the people of Santiago, but seemed a bit quiet and run down out of season. Valparaiso is more bohemian, with great views and amazing street art! So we spent the day exploring before returning to meet our new guide Mark, our first native English guide.
Sadly we are leaving Santiago tonight on the night bus, so our last explore today.
A lot of travelling ahead, through the north of Patagonia, bit looks like there will be some awesome outdoorsy stuff to do on the way!!
One month to go xoxoxo
But we weren't there long before heading to Santiago the next day.
We have absolutely loved Santiago, the first SA city we could live in. The city is picturesque, nestled in among huge snow-capped mountains. Only one negative, which is the smog. The people have a lot of character, it is a very pleasant warm dry heat, there are beautiful parks and reserves and the city is modern and organised!
So we arrived on mayoral election day, we read about it on Stuff so you guys should know about it too!! Chile has just changed from optional enrollment and enforced voting to automatic enrollment and unenforced voting, hope that makes sense! At the same time, the president will be elected soon, so there was a lot of interest in the outcome. Everything shut on election day, so our first meal in Santiago was trusty McDonalds. But the next day we were able to explore. We took the subway (civilisation!!) to the brand new biggest mall in SA, decided we didn't like malls, and walked home on the scenic route through the city. This included up the hill reserve to the huge statue of the Virgin Mary, and up the little hill by our hotel which has been a convent and a fortress in the past, but is now a very pretty park. That evening we said goodbye to a few of our number and our guide, in anticipation for the next leg, Santiago to Buenos Aires!! the second to last with one month until home!
The next day we went on another wee mission to the neighbouring seaside towns of Viña del Mar and Valparaiso. Viña del Mar is a popular beach holiday destination for the people of Santiago, but seemed a bit quiet and run down out of season. Valparaiso is more bohemian, with great views and amazing street art! So we spent the day exploring before returning to meet our new guide Mark, our first native English guide.
Sadly we are leaving Santiago tonight on the night bus, so our last explore today.
A lot of travelling ahead, through the north of Patagonia, bit looks like there will be some awesome outdoorsy stuff to do on the way!!
One month to go xoxoxo
Thursday 25 October 2012
Days 61 - 66: The Salt Flats and Chile
Hola Amigos!! Sorry it's been a while, the Bolivian desert has no wifi!!
We spent a night in Uyuni before heading into the desert. We were travelling in old land cruisers, not the really old ones, but a few generations ago. Our first stop was a train cemetery, where many old trains have been turned into a playground. Was great fun!!
Next we stopped in Colchani, where we learnt how the local people collect, grind and package the salt from the salt flats for consumption in Bolivia. From there we visited the salt flats themselves!! We had to take some of the typical photos playing with perspective of course. The scale of the flats was absolutely mind blowing, just white salt and blue sky for miles!! The tour company provided an awesome picnic lunch, by the end of which most of us were sunburned, like being in the snow!
We stopped at an 'island' on the flats, which was bizarre - covered in cacti and rising up out of the salt. On the way, our driver realised we had a leak in our transmission fluid. Sam tried to help him fix it, getting back into the car saying "don't look under the bonnet, none of the parts are original". We had definitely experienced the Bolivian culture of patching things up rather than thoroughly fixing them!!
We stayed the night in a salt hostel on the edge of the salt flats, which was also completely made of salt!
The next day we continued travelling south, stopping at lagoons and volcanoes along the way, the lagoons were all different colours, and we saw many flamingoes. The last lagoon was red due to iron-containing plankton, which was pretty crazy!!
Our final day in Bolivia, we visited the Solar de Mañana geysers, which were steam funnels similar to Rotorua, some with mud bubbling. We headed off to a natural hot spring, but on the way our poor land cruiser had a flat tyre. So we had a dance party in the desert with the car radio while they fixed it. It was surreal. One of the spares was the wrong size, another was flat also, but luckily the third space saver tyre got us to the pools!! The pools were very scenic, it was awesome to get in the warm water in the freezing desert!
We then crossed the border from the Bolivian side (a wee hut in the desert) and traveled for a few kms to the Chilean side (a much more respectable border office where they even have a border patrol!!). Another stamp in the passport!!
In the border town San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, we felt like we had reached civilisation again. Especially because they have proper milk, no more lumpy powdered milk!
The next day we walked to the Quitor ruins, which also had a great view, nice to get some exercise!! In the afternoon we went on a tour to the valley of the moon. The landscapes in this area have been spectacular. We watched the sun set over the valley.
Today we have our longest night bus yet, 17 hours from S.P. de Atacama to La Serena. Painful!! But still glad to be in Chile.
Take it easy everyone, lots of love xoxo
Sam Facts Days 61 - 66: The Atacama desert is the driest place on earth. The Uyuni salt flat is the largest on earth, and the Atacama salt flat is the third. The north of Chile also used to be part of Bolivia, then Chile confiscated it in a bloody war in the late 1800s, leaving Bolivia land-locked. Still a sore point to this day.
We spent a night in Uyuni before heading into the desert. We were travelling in old land cruisers, not the really old ones, but a few generations ago. Our first stop was a train cemetery, where many old trains have been turned into a playground. Was great fun!!
Next we stopped in Colchani, where we learnt how the local people collect, grind and package the salt from the salt flats for consumption in Bolivia. From there we visited the salt flats themselves!! We had to take some of the typical photos playing with perspective of course. The scale of the flats was absolutely mind blowing, just white salt and blue sky for miles!! The tour company provided an awesome picnic lunch, by the end of which most of us were sunburned, like being in the snow!
We stopped at an 'island' on the flats, which was bizarre - covered in cacti and rising up out of the salt. On the way, our driver realised we had a leak in our transmission fluid. Sam tried to help him fix it, getting back into the car saying "don't look under the bonnet, none of the parts are original". We had definitely experienced the Bolivian culture of patching things up rather than thoroughly fixing them!!
We stayed the night in a salt hostel on the edge of the salt flats, which was also completely made of salt!
The next day we continued travelling south, stopping at lagoons and volcanoes along the way, the lagoons were all different colours, and we saw many flamingoes. The last lagoon was red due to iron-containing plankton, which was pretty crazy!!
Our final day in Bolivia, we visited the Solar de Mañana geysers, which were steam funnels similar to Rotorua, some with mud bubbling. We headed off to a natural hot spring, but on the way our poor land cruiser had a flat tyre. So we had a dance party in the desert with the car radio while they fixed it. It was surreal. One of the spares was the wrong size, another was flat also, but luckily the third space saver tyre got us to the pools!! The pools were very scenic, it was awesome to get in the warm water in the freezing desert!
We then crossed the border from the Bolivian side (a wee hut in the desert) and traveled for a few kms to the Chilean side (a much more respectable border office where they even have a border patrol!!). Another stamp in the passport!!
In the border town San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, we felt like we had reached civilisation again. Especially because they have proper milk, no more lumpy powdered milk!
The next day we walked to the Quitor ruins, which also had a great view, nice to get some exercise!! In the afternoon we went on a tour to the valley of the moon. The landscapes in this area have been spectacular. We watched the sun set over the valley.
Today we have our longest night bus yet, 17 hours from S.P. de Atacama to La Serena. Painful!! But still glad to be in Chile.
Take it easy everyone, lots of love xoxo
Sam Facts Days 61 - 66: The Atacama desert is the driest place on earth. The Uyuni salt flat is the largest on earth, and the Atacama salt flat is the third. The north of Chile also used to be part of Bolivia, then Chile confiscated it in a bloody war in the late 1800s, leaving Bolivia land-locked. Still a sore point to this day.
Friday 19 October 2012
Days 57 - 60: Dinosaur Footprints and Silver Mines
We arrived in Sucre after a long night bus and set out to explore the city. Sucre is a pretty university town that once was the countries capital but has recently been stripped of all but it's judicial responsibilities (to La Paz).
On our second day we headed to the outskirts of town to Cretaceous park where hundreds of footprints of multiple dinosaur species can be seen along a 1.5 kilometer wall. They were only discovered due to cement mining and can now only be viewed from a distance due to erosion.
The next day we hiked to some lesser known footprints in the hills. While not as expansive as Cretaceous park, it was really cool to touch the places where dinosaurs once stood!
Next we headed back to the altiplano to Potosi, the highest city in the world and the location of one the worlds most significant silver mines. First up we headed to the old Spanish Imperial and National mint, where we saw how they made coins from the local silver.
Today we headed up Cerro Rico, to see first hand the working conditions of the cooperative mines. After suiting up and being instructed to buy dynamite, coca leaves and alcohol for the miners, we drove up the mountain to one of the mine entrances.
The group spent over an hour exploring and learning about the mines and the unique culture of the miners. Except for Sarah and a couple of others, who preferred safety and fresh air, and didn't go too far past the entrance!
Tomorrow we are off to Uyuni for a 4WD tour of the salt flats and national parks. So the next time you will hear from us will be in the north of Chile! Ciao for now!
Sam Fact for Potosi: The ridges on the circumference of a coin were originally designed to prevent people from trimming the coins and stealing the silver.
On our second day we headed to the outskirts of town to Cretaceous park where hundreds of footprints of multiple dinosaur species can be seen along a 1.5 kilometer wall. They were only discovered due to cement mining and can now only be viewed from a distance due to erosion.
The next day we hiked to some lesser known footprints in the hills. While not as expansive as Cretaceous park, it was really cool to touch the places where dinosaurs once stood!
Next we headed back to the altiplano to Potosi, the highest city in the world and the location of one the worlds most significant silver mines. First up we headed to the old Spanish Imperial and National mint, where we saw how they made coins from the local silver.
Today we headed up Cerro Rico, to see first hand the working conditions of the cooperative mines. After suiting up and being instructed to buy dynamite, coca leaves and alcohol for the miners, we drove up the mountain to one of the mine entrances.
The group spent over an hour exploring and learning about the mines and the unique culture of the miners. Except for Sarah and a couple of others, who preferred safety and fresh air, and didn't go too far past the entrance!
Tomorrow we are off to Uyuni for a 4WD tour of the salt flats and national parks. So the next time you will hear from us will be in the north of Chile! Ciao for now!
Sam Fact for Potosi: The ridges on the circumference of a coin were originally designed to prevent people from trimming the coins and stealing the silver.
Monday 15 October 2012
Days 52 - 56: Bolivia and the World's Most Dangerous Road!!
Don't get scared by the title, this is a good story!
We arrived in La Paz after a very long day, on a bus to the border between Peru and Bolivia, getting passports stamped, getting back on the bus to Copacabana, a new bus to the narrowest part of Lake Titicaca, crossing the lake by ferry, waiting for the bus to cross by ferry also, then back on the bus to La Paz. Phew!!
The next day in La Paz we spent the morning exploring, then our guide for the Lima to La Paz leg, Arturo, had organised for us to go to the football Rio 2014 qualifiers Bolivia vs Peru game with him and some of his mates. Was good fun deciding who to support and getting our faces painted (sitting on the fence with one flag on each side!), but the atmosphere wasn't as crazy there as we had expected! We think it turned out for the best as it was a 1-1 draw and everyone was happy. That night we met our new tour leader, Karina, our first female, which has been different! We also sadly said goodbye to Peter, David, Sarah and Jess, but hello to some new group members!
The next day, as the result of MUCH discussion and debate, eleven of our group set out to mountain bike the World's Most Dangerous Road! Mums, before you freak out, the road is no longer open to traffic, as a new road has been built, and so it's now exclusively a mountain bike track. We went with the guide company who started the mountain biking, Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking, which was founded by a Kiwi, so of course they have all the best gear and guides! The bikes we were on were way better than our bikes at home, with back suspension to save your behind. A little nervous to start, we set off on the first section which is tar-sealed. So far so good, we moved onto the real 'Death Road', the gravel. The road is about three meters across in it's narrowest section, with sheer cliff on one side. So we didn't look over the side, and found it was a really enjoyable ride, definitely not dangerous at all as we listened carefully to the guide. At the town at the bottom, there is a animal sanctuary in the rainforest, where we had lunch and went on a monkey tour. Here in this sanctuary is where Paddington the spectacled bear is hiding, not in Peru after all!! Though unfortunately we didn't see him as he only comes out in the morning when he is fed.
We then caught our guide bus back up the road and home safely again. Sarah has been proudly wearing her 'I survived the worlds most dangerous road' T-shirt since!
On our final day in La Paz, Sam decided he hadn't had enough of an adrenaline rush, so going with the partner company of Gravity, abseiled down the side of one of the buildings face first wearing a spiderman suit. Needless to say, Sarah took photos. So enough for a wee while we think!!
After that we had a night bus to Sucre. Five down, four to go now! In Sucre, we have three days to explore before we move on again, so watch this space!
Over halfway through now, the rest will go quickly!!
Xoxoxoxoxoxo
A Sam Fact (because we haven't had one in ages): The World's Most Dangerous Road goes from around nearly 5000 to 1500 meters in altitude over roughly 60 km. While it was a road, they used to lose a vehicle over the edge about once every two weeks, while trying to use the road in both directions. Eek!!
We arrived in La Paz after a very long day, on a bus to the border between Peru and Bolivia, getting passports stamped, getting back on the bus to Copacabana, a new bus to the narrowest part of Lake Titicaca, crossing the lake by ferry, waiting for the bus to cross by ferry also, then back on the bus to La Paz. Phew!!
The next day in La Paz we spent the morning exploring, then our guide for the Lima to La Paz leg, Arturo, had organised for us to go to the football Rio 2014 qualifiers Bolivia vs Peru game with him and some of his mates. Was good fun deciding who to support and getting our faces painted (sitting on the fence with one flag on each side!), but the atmosphere wasn't as crazy there as we had expected! We think it turned out for the best as it was a 1-1 draw and everyone was happy. That night we met our new tour leader, Karina, our first female, which has been different! We also sadly said goodbye to Peter, David, Sarah and Jess, but hello to some new group members!
The next day, as the result of MUCH discussion and debate, eleven of our group set out to mountain bike the World's Most Dangerous Road! Mums, before you freak out, the road is no longer open to traffic, as a new road has been built, and so it's now exclusively a mountain bike track. We went with the guide company who started the mountain biking, Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking, which was founded by a Kiwi, so of course they have all the best gear and guides! The bikes we were on were way better than our bikes at home, with back suspension to save your behind. A little nervous to start, we set off on the first section which is tar-sealed. So far so good, we moved onto the real 'Death Road', the gravel. The road is about three meters across in it's narrowest section, with sheer cliff on one side. So we didn't look over the side, and found it was a really enjoyable ride, definitely not dangerous at all as we listened carefully to the guide. At the town at the bottom, there is a animal sanctuary in the rainforest, where we had lunch and went on a monkey tour. Here in this sanctuary is where Paddington the spectacled bear is hiding, not in Peru after all!! Though unfortunately we didn't see him as he only comes out in the morning when he is fed.
We then caught our guide bus back up the road and home safely again. Sarah has been proudly wearing her 'I survived the worlds most dangerous road' T-shirt since!
On our final day in La Paz, Sam decided he hadn't had enough of an adrenaline rush, so going with the partner company of Gravity, abseiled down the side of one of the buildings face first wearing a spiderman suit. Needless to say, Sarah took photos. So enough for a wee while we think!!
After that we had a night bus to Sucre. Five down, four to go now! In Sucre, we have three days to explore before we move on again, so watch this space!
Over halfway through now, the rest will go quickly!!
Xoxoxoxoxoxo
A Sam Fact (because we haven't had one in ages): The World's Most Dangerous Road goes from around nearly 5000 to 1500 meters in altitude over roughly 60 km. While it was a road, they used to lose a vehicle over the edge about once every two weeks, while trying to use the road in both directions. Eek!!
Wednesday 10 October 2012
Days 49 - 51: Homestay at Lake Titicaca
Hola amigos!
Before we tell you about our homestay, let us tell you about the guinea pig we had for dinner in Puno before we left! We had finally drummed up the courage, so we ordered - one between two of course. We were the only people game enough from our group. It was in a nice restaurant, not quite like the roadside stall in Intrepid Journeys! When our guinea pig or 'cuy' roasted with andean herbs arrived, it looked pretty vulgar and we didn't know where to start. We started by covering its eyes with a lettuce leaf, so we didn't feel so bad. But apart from the very high work-to-meat ratio, it was pretty good, tastes like duck! So that might be our last guinea pig experience for this trip!
So to Lake Titicaca! We caught a middle-sized boat on a beautiful day to the floating islands, Uros. The islands are made out of reeds, and it felt like walking on a giant sponge! The women were really friendly, and invited us into their tiny houses for a look around, but then tried to sell us their wares, and got pretty grumpy when we wouldn't buy them. We felt bad, but we have seen the same market goods everywhere!
We jumped back on the boat, and after lunch on Taquile Island, we landed on Laquina peninsula. Here we played a game of soccer against the locals (we lost :() then our host families dressed us up in traditional dress for a dancing ceremony! We were then led up the hill in the dark to our home for the night! The houses were made from mud bricks, and were very simple, only one room, with a mud brick house for us, one for the kitchen, etc. Our dinner was cooked in a corner of the room on a fire, but was very tasty! The family was very quiet at dinner, until Sam asked 'do you talk at dinner time?' in his best Spanish! We then had a great conversation comparing life on the lake to life in NZ, using the NZ tea towel we took for them as a present for inspiration! We then went straight to bed, around 7:45 pm, and slept like logs until our wake up call at 7 am! We were then employed for the morning, helping muster their 15 sheep (no fences, all tied around their feet), carry new topsoil for the garden from down the road, and then went for a scenic walk. It was then time to jump back on the boat to Puno! A very cool experience, we learnt so much more than staying in a hotel! So our last day in Peru today, we have a bus ride over the border to La Paz in Bolivia tomorrow!
Photos to come!
Also a wee update in general info, Sarah's nails are long and beautiful now after 50 days stress-free, Sam's beard is getting hideously long (and we are only halfway!), and Sam's Spanish is coming along too!
Hope all good back home!! Hasta luego!! Xoxoxoxo
Before we tell you about our homestay, let us tell you about the guinea pig we had for dinner in Puno before we left! We had finally drummed up the courage, so we ordered - one between two of course. We were the only people game enough from our group. It was in a nice restaurant, not quite like the roadside stall in Intrepid Journeys! When our guinea pig or 'cuy' roasted with andean herbs arrived, it looked pretty vulgar and we didn't know where to start. We started by covering its eyes with a lettuce leaf, so we didn't feel so bad. But apart from the very high work-to-meat ratio, it was pretty good, tastes like duck! So that might be our last guinea pig experience for this trip!
So to Lake Titicaca! We caught a middle-sized boat on a beautiful day to the floating islands, Uros. The islands are made out of reeds, and it felt like walking on a giant sponge! The women were really friendly, and invited us into their tiny houses for a look around, but then tried to sell us their wares, and got pretty grumpy when we wouldn't buy them. We felt bad, but we have seen the same market goods everywhere!
We jumped back on the boat, and after lunch on Taquile Island, we landed on Laquina peninsula. Here we played a game of soccer against the locals (we lost :() then our host families dressed us up in traditional dress for a dancing ceremony! We were then led up the hill in the dark to our home for the night! The houses were made from mud bricks, and were very simple, only one room, with a mud brick house for us, one for the kitchen, etc. Our dinner was cooked in a corner of the room on a fire, but was very tasty! The family was very quiet at dinner, until Sam asked 'do you talk at dinner time?' in his best Spanish! We then had a great conversation comparing life on the lake to life in NZ, using the NZ tea towel we took for them as a present for inspiration! We then went straight to bed, around 7:45 pm, and slept like logs until our wake up call at 7 am! We were then employed for the morning, helping muster their 15 sheep (no fences, all tied around their feet), carry new topsoil for the garden from down the road, and then went for a scenic walk. It was then time to jump back on the boat to Puno! A very cool experience, we learnt so much more than staying in a hotel! So our last day in Peru today, we have a bus ride over the border to La Paz in Bolivia tomorrow!
Photos to come!
Also a wee update in general info, Sarah's nails are long and beautiful now after 50 days stress-free, Sam's beard is getting hideously long (and we are only halfway!), and Sam's Spanish is coming along too!
Hope all good back home!! Hasta luego!! Xoxoxoxo
Sunday 7 October 2012
Days 44 - 48: The Inca Trail
Well we made it! The Inca Trail was hard, really hard. Well Sam found it easier than Sarah did. The first day we had to start really early as there was a public transport strike where they planned to block roads in and out of Cusco, so the guide and van driver had to get up in the middle of the night to get to the start point for us. But day one of the Inca trail was very do-able, as we passed through small villages and some Incan ruins. At the end of the day Sam played goalie in a six a side soccer match against the locals where he helped hustle them out of two Nuevo Soles each!
Day two of the Inca trail was not easy. We had to climb from 3000m to 4200m over 8km in a part of the trek called Dead Woman's Pass, so it was very steep and the effects of the altitude started to take its toll on Sarah. But after a wee tantrum 80m from the top due to lack of breath, we made it! The view was spectacular, very hard to believe we had just climbed so far up! Then we had to endure nearly 2 hours of down to get to lunch, arriving at camp very weary, but in the leading pack of six. Our arrival time was 1:15 pm, with the last girl coming in at 4:30 - a very long day for her.
That night it rained. Sam's bag was under a drip leak in the tent and Sarah's sleeping bag cover was saturated. But we were well off compared to others! Because of the rain, we had cloudy misty weather on day three of the trail, so despite the gentler walking we were a little disappointed not to be able to see the view from the top of the mountain ranges. However we did get to see a number of impressive ruins clinging to the side of the cliffs!
On day four we woke up at 3:45 full of anticipation, ready to race from the line at the check point to the sun gate. The view Macchu Picchu from the sun gate was awesome, and we were there in plenty of time to see the sun rise and beat some of the crowd!
We spent a few hours exploring Macchu Picchu, which was definitely the most spectacular of the ruins to date, due to size, remote location and completeness. We felt a pretty big sense of accomplishment! We also couldn't wait to get back to Cusco for the first shower in five days! So you can imagine the disappointment when the hotel ran out of hot water!
Day two of the Inca trail was not easy. We had to climb from 3000m to 4200m over 8km in a part of the trek called Dead Woman's Pass, so it was very steep and the effects of the altitude started to take its toll on Sarah. But after a wee tantrum 80m from the top due to lack of breath, we made it! The view was spectacular, very hard to believe we had just climbed so far up! Then we had to endure nearly 2 hours of down to get to lunch, arriving at camp very weary, but in the leading pack of six. Our arrival time was 1:15 pm, with the last girl coming in at 4:30 - a very long day for her.
That night it rained. Sam's bag was under a drip leak in the tent and Sarah's sleeping bag cover was saturated. But we were well off compared to others! Because of the rain, we had cloudy misty weather on day three of the trail, so despite the gentler walking we were a little disappointed not to be able to see the view from the top of the mountain ranges. However we did get to see a number of impressive ruins clinging to the side of the cliffs!
On day four we woke up at 3:45 full of anticipation, ready to race from the line at the check point to the sun gate. The view Macchu Picchu from the sun gate was awesome, and we were there in plenty of time to see the sun rise and beat some of the crowd!
We spent a few hours exploring Macchu Picchu, which was definitely the most spectacular of the ruins to date, due to size, remote location and completeness. We felt a pretty big sense of accomplishment! We also couldn't wait to get back to Cusco for the first shower in five days! So you can imagine the disappointment when the hotel ran out of hot water!
Tuesday 2 October 2012
Days 40 - 43: Cusco
Hola amigos!
After the Colca Canyon, we had a day back in Arequipa before a night bus to Cusco. We have both really enjoyed Cusco, exploring the city and preparing for the Inca trail. There was so much history in the city's monuments, ruins and temples - its like a living museum! Sam managed to find a giant sleeping bag to hire, so we think we're all set!
Today we travelled to Ollaytantambo in the Sacred Valley, which is just 1 hour from the start of the Inca trail. It is an amazing town surrounded by mountains and impressive Incan ruins. We spent the afternoon climbing cliff faces and exploring the ruins. Looking forward to doing the trek now!
Will let you know how it went when we get back to Cusco! Xo
After the Colca Canyon, we had a day back in Arequipa before a night bus to Cusco. We have both really enjoyed Cusco, exploring the city and preparing for the Inca trail. There was so much history in the city's monuments, ruins and temples - its like a living museum! Sam managed to find a giant sleeping bag to hire, so we think we're all set!
Today we travelled to Ollaytantambo in the Sacred Valley, which is just 1 hour from the start of the Inca trail. It is an amazing town surrounded by mountains and impressive Incan ruins. We spent the afternoon climbing cliff faces and exploring the ruins. Looking forward to doing the trek now!
Will let you know how it went when we get back to Cusco! Xo
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